Five Fantastic Days in NYC!
By NM Leland Fuerstman
Charlotte, NC 11-23-16: Wow! What an excursion! For the sake of brevity, I shall forgo posting images of the tall buildings and bright lights of NYC and concentrate more on the personal aspects of my visit. When I was a little boy in the early 50's, my grandparents lived on Riverside Drive on the "upper west side" of Manhattan in New York City. My sister Joan still lives right down the street from their old apartment. She was kind enough to allow me to stay with her. My first recollections of a subway train emanated from climbing the old wooden stairway at the 125th Street Station. Only at this point, for logistical reasons, did the train actually come up out of the ground! In fact, in very few places, save the "train yard," does this occur anywhere in NYC! Over time, the facade has deteriorated and been upgraded, but the original above-ground structure is still in place. Back in the 70's & 80's, street artists covered each train car with the highest quality graffiti you could ever imagine, including the logos of various street gangs, but every Mayor since then has prohibited the trend. Now, the trains are modern, clean, fast and laden with advertising - in 4 or 5 different languages! - The morning after I arrived, it was my honor to have lunch at a quaint little Chinese Restaurant on Broadway & 96th St. with the most prolific chess author and teacher known to man. Having been around forever, NM Bruce Pandolfini is a chess celebrity who has authored no less than 40 chess books! (His character was played by Ben Kingsly in the movie "Searching For Bobby Fischer!") It should be noted that 10 years ago, my sister Lenore, and his wife Roz were good friends when their daughters were each attending a special school and accompanying each other to various camps. In fact, after hearing her play, the Pandolfini's hired Natasha to teach Sara, piano! Bruce is the most humble and amicable gentleman you could ever meet. He had to bolt back to his classes just before Lenore arrived. In this candid image, he's chatting with her! Then, I accompanied her to the bank where her agent said he was once a rated tournament player! What a small world...

Later that day, I made my way "downtown" to the celebrated Marshall Chess Club! On the wall, is a huge plaque which includes the name of every club Champion since it's inception! The interior of the club involves a couple of narrow staircases and a maze of small rooms!? (curiously, similar to the local chess center...) Amazingly, I ran into chess icon SM Sunil Weeramantry who is the step-father of GM Hikaru Nakamura (2779). I reminded him that I had met him 25 or so years ago. Then, I walked into another room where IM Jay Bonin (2417) was sitting. I introduced myself and reminded him that we had played in the World Open at the Roosevelt Hotel some 30+ years ago! He didn't remember the game, but he remembered my name. Moments after capturing his image, he "friended" me on FaceBook! It is my understanding that Bonin has played more rated games than any player in history!!! - Then, I walked down the narrow staircase and encountered a young gentleman named Wil who agreed to play skittles. Without the clock, he played 1. e4 to which I responded, ...c5. The game proceeded with 2. Nf3 d6 3. d4 cd 4. Qd4!? a6 5. Be3 Nc6 6. Qb6! Are you kidding me?! Somehow, I shored the position up and won the ending. The next game, I offered a Pawn that couldn't be taken. Wil exclaimed, "Now, I can tell people that I won a Pawn from a Master!" and then politely resigned. However, in the final game, he promptly negotiated a Pawn to the "e6" square and summarily checkmated me! When I asked about his rating, he said that he had never played a tournament game in his life! Then I asked, "where did you learn to play so well" to which he responded, "...some dude at Washington Square Park!! The guy I play is not quite as good as you!"  I was truly flattered.

The following day, Saturday, November 19, I put on my suit and tie, attached my "official credentials badge" and proceeded to meet my son, Sammy, at the South Street Seaport where the 2016 World Chess Championship was being contested. The single day tickets were $75 each. When we got to the door, I asked a member of security where the "will-call" line was? I was pointed to a counter where I stridently stepped forward and opened my jacket. Exposing my card, I boldly stated, "National Master Leland Fuerstman, North Carolina... we're in the system." The clerk looked at the computer screen and said, "how do you spell that?" Then, I flashed the opposite side of the card, whereupon he quickly wrapped our wrists with "passes" and pointed to the entrance! My "gatecrashing" father, rest his soul, would have been proud of that one. We saved $150!! - They were giving the badge stickers away to kids in the security line at the airport! LOL - In Yiddish, we "schnorred" our way in!

So, we entered the rooms where a few areas had been set aside with large flat screen TV's, (not quite as large as they should have been) and too few tables and chairs. As I glanced around, I observed various celebrities and people whom I knew. Here is Sammy with a beautiful correspondent from a NY paper! Then, we bumped into this gentleman who was from Sweden. After a bit of small talk, I ask his name. He was Sweden's #2 player behind Timman, GM Harry Schussler, who is now an international reporter and author. Then, we entered the large room where the post game interview was to take place. The chess photographers all gathered to record this historic event. There, I bumped into a friendly guy named Korey Kormick from Tennessee, who recently directed an FIDE event here in Charlotte! As the hours went on, the moves continued to be instantly transferred to the screens. But, the players, World Champion GM Magnus Carlsen and Challenger GM Sergey Karjakin, were playing in an isolated, sound proof room. And then, the game concluded for their 7th consecutive Draw! For the first few minutes, the players shook hands and signed autographs in a private room. Then, they came out on the stage to a warm round of applause. Judith Polgar was the commentator. Each player spoke for 5 or 10 minutes allowing spectators to take advantage of their smart phones. Finally, they egressed. What a fantastic day!

Later that evening, we stopped at a Spanish fish market and grocery store and came home with chicken and crab legs which Sammy cooked to perfection! Then, we joined his beautiful wife, Colette, at their Irish Bar on the East side called the Confession Box. No TV's or cell phones allowed. Just traditional Irish music played by an outstanding band! Then, immediately following their 2nd set, after I had already consumed a significant amount of Irish spirits, the guy announces, "and now, directly from North Carolina, Leland!!" What?? Apparently, Sam and his wife had put a bug in their ear and they decided to ask me to play and sing. I could think of a dozen reasons why I shouldn't take the stage... his guitar had metal strings, mine has nylon, the neck was too narrow for my hands, etc, etc. But, the show must go on! So, I took the stage and attempted to do my best... and, before I knew it, Sammy was singing  harmony with me and the crowd was roaring! Then, I sang Bob Seger's "Turn the Page." When I got to the refrain, I said, "come on, help me out" whereupon everyone in the entire building was singing!, "...Here I am, on the road again, here I am, up on the stage, here I go, playin' the star again, here I go, turn the page!!!" Every chubby woman,
the bartender, the owner, the dishwasher, every lonely drunk, every young couple in the house was singing! It was "off the chain." The song resulted in a roaring approval of applause which I shall never forget. What a great moment! (In fact, I have been invited back for a return performance!)

The following day, the World Champion went down in flames. Though I did not attend the event, I observed it on my phone. Frankly, I was so worn out from the previous day, I didn't have the energy to go. (I lost 5 lbs. on the trip. Southerners are not used to all of the walking up and down stairs and so many blocks up and down the street. Hey, move to NYC and lose weight!). So, I decided to have dinner with my daughter-in-law, Colette. She comes from Scotland and speaks in the thickest Scottish brogue you can imagine. We  talked for 2 hours over dinner and I couldn't understand a word she said!! LOL But, she is so loving and beautiful, it didn't make any difference.

Monday, I retreated to Joan's and rested. I enjoyed the chance to reminisce with her and eat delicious pizza purchased from the Spanish pizza place! That was surely one of the greatest vacations I have had in some time. Flew back yesterday. When I walked in, Butt-Butt gave me a big kiss!

Leland